i r : A N a t u r a l W i n e m a k e r ’ s J o u r n e y
Making the big decision: when to pick?
Out here in North Canterbury, New Zealand, where the limestone hills stretch into the distance and the vines dig deep, growing organic Pinot Noir is more than a craft—it’s a dance with nature.
I make natural wine the way it’s meant to be: no additives, no preservatives, just the grapes and a lot of patience. Did you know that wine grapes don’t continue to ripen after they’ve been picked?
The most thrilling step in that dance with nature is deciding when to harvest. It’s that moment that shapes every bottle of my classic Pinot Noir—a wine that’s all about balance, soul, and that unmistakable charm.
So how do I know when the time is right? It’s about listening to the grapes, tasting their story, and finding that sweet spot where everything comes together. Let me take you through it.
The Flavor Chase
It starts with the taste. Early on, the grapes are tart and green—think biting into a sour apple. But as they ripen under the New Zealand sun, something magical happens. Those sharp edges soften into juicy bursts of red fruit—cherries, raspberries, maybe a hint of wild strawberry. I carefully sample every vineyard block, carefully tasting berries, searching for that moment when the flavours are at their peak. That’s when I know the wine will have the depth and character Pinot Noir lovers crave.
The Sugar Sweet Spot
Then there’s the sugar—nature’s fuel for fermentation. We use a simple tool to measure it, something called Brix refractometer, which tells me how much sugar is in the juice. For a dry Pinot Noir, I’m aiming for 23 to 25 Brix—enough to land the wine at a cozy 12 to 14% alcohol, with a balance that feels just right. Too little, and the wine’s thin; too much, and it’s a boozy hot mess. It’s like finding the perfect pour—satisfying, not overwhelming.
The Whole Grape Moment
But sugar’s only half the story. There’s a quieter kind of ripeness I watch for—the kind you feel more than measure. It’s in the way the seeds gradually turn from green to a biscuity brown and begin to loose the gloopy pulp that initially protects them, and how the skins soften under my fingers, ready to give up their color and texture and begin to taste less astringent. Even the stems play a part, shifting from brittle to pliable. This is the grape growing up, hitting its stride. When it all aligns, the wine’s not just tasty—it’s got that silky, velvety hug that makes Pinot Noir unforgettable.
The Big Call
The real art is bringing these pieces together. In the weeks before harvest, I’m out there every couple of days, tasting, touching, measuring. The birds start circling outside the lockout netting—they know by the colour that the grapes are getting tasty. The weather throws curveballs: a chilly morning or overcast day might slow things down, or a hot afternoon might rush them along. I’ll check the Brix, sure, but it’s my gut that seals the deal. When the flavours pop, the sugars hum, and the grapes feel ripe in every way, I take a deep breath and say, “This is it.”
That’s when the magic happens. We pick the grapes, and carry them a few hundred meters up to our on-site pop-up winery to become wine—unfussed with, unfiltered, just pure North Canterbury goodness. The result? A glass that’s alive with red fruit, a whisper of earth, and a texture that lingers like a good story.
So next time you swirl a Fancrest Estate Pinot Noir, imagine those last days in the vineyard—the sun, the soil, and me, the winegrower and winemaker, waiting for the perfect moment to capture it all. That’s the journey in every sip.
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